Peptides are everywhere in ingredient lists, and although we’ve heard a lot about how amazing they are, it’s less advertised what they are and how they work.
In this blog we dig into what peptides are, how they work, and how to use them in your own formulations.
What are Peptides?
Peptides are the building blocks of proteins, made up of two or more (up to about 50) amino acids and found throughout your body. The main difference between peptides and proteins is the number of amino acids used to make up the molecules—proteins tend to have more than 50 amino acids.
Collagen, elastin, and keratin are all proteins, and certain peptides form parts of those proteins. Given that collagen may have too large a molecular weight to be absorbed, peptides are likely one of the better options to achieve that youthful glow we are all in pursuit of!
What do Peptides do for You?
Various peptides serve different functions depending on their location in the body and type of tissue. Those most relevant to skin care are the peptides in the facial skin that have been found to minimize the appearance of signs of aging, including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and boosting the appearance of firmer and more elastic skin.
One key to creating successful peptide products is to ensure appropriate molecular weight (not too high) and to prevent the peptides from binding to other ingredients which may alter their efficacy.
Benefits of Peptides in Skin Care
So what do peptides do for skin? Peptides are ideal ingredients for pollution-focused products in the urban environment, promoting the look of healthy skin. In addition, they are perfect for antiaging product lines targeting maturing skin, helping it look rejuvenated and balanced. Peptides can also have antioxidant qualities, further contributing to their antiaging benefits.
Other Notes
Given the expense of many peptides and the way they function on the skin, it’s best to choose a serum or moisturizer that sits on the skin longer than a cleanser.
Mix and Match: many peptides work wonderfully with other ingredients like vitamin c and niacinamide (vitamin B3) but are less effective with alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) like glycolic acid.
Recipe Guidelines: Adding a peptide to a pre-made serum
One of the best things about peptides is that they’re easy to work with and add to a pre-existing formula in addition to being wonderful ingredients! We have 5 highlighted peptides that we’re adding to our catalog soon, and below you’ll find their specific usage rates and instructions to add them to one of our stock serums (or your own formula).
As always we recommend testing additions in small amounts of product, measuring and keeping track as you go, and then scaling up from there.
Some of our favorite serums, creams, and best sellers to use as a base:
- Niacinamide Facial Serum
- Supreme Facial Serum
- Antioxidant Facial Serum
- CoQ10 Hydrating Cream-to-Gel
- Rooibos Eye Cream
Matrixyl-3000
- Ideal For: A rejuvenated look for mature skin. Does double duty to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while leaving skin calm and soothed.
- Use In: Serums, lotions, creams, and gels
- Usage Rate: 3% – 8%
- How to Use:
- Water soluble.
- Add to a formulation at the end of the emulsion process during the cool down period.
- Do not heat over 104°F
Palmitoyl Peptide Complex
- Ideal For: Maturing skin, aging skin around the eye area
- Use In: Eye creams, serums, lotions, masks, concealers
- Usage Rate: 1% – 3%
- How to Use:
- Water soluble.
- Add to formulations in the water phase or cool-down phase.
- Do not heat over 113°F
Argireline Peptide Solution NP
- Ideal For: Maturing skin looking for a youthful glow and the appearance of elastic and firm skin
- Use In: Serums, creams, lotions, gels
- Usage Rate: 2% – 10%
- How to Use:
- Water soluble.
- Add to the water phase of your formulation.
- Do not heat above 100°F
Tripeptide Solution
- Ideal For: Moisturizing and rejuvenating maturing skin, specifically the eye area
- Use In: Serums, creams, lotions, gels
- Usage Rate: 1% – 3%
- How to Use:
- Water soluble.
- Add to the end phase of your formulation.
- Do not heat above 100°F
Octapeptide Solution
- Ideal For: Helping maturing skin look conditioned and soft
- Use In: Serums, creams, lotions, gels
- Usage Rate: 3% – 10%
- How to Use:
- Water soluble.
- Add to the water phase or end phase of a formulation.
- Do not heat above 100°F
Let us know what you make with these wonderful peptides in the comments below!
Sources and further reading:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22647954/
