Formulating With Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

AHAs are a group of organic carboxylic compounds. AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products including glycolic acid , lactic acid , malic acid , citric acid, and tartaric acid. In personal care, Lactic Acid is used in the formulation of cleansers, splashes, astringents and moisturizers to enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin. At Essential, we use Lactic Acid as one of the AHA ingredients in our products.

About Lactic Acid

Essential Wholesale & Labs’ Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid manufactured by fermentation of non-GMO corn derived carbohydrates. It undergoes several purification steps before arriving at its final state as a clear to yellowish, nearly odorless, viscous, water-soluble solution consisting of a mixture of Lactic Acid and Lactic Acid Lactate.

At low concentration, lactic acid is a pH adjuster. Healthy skin is naturally somewhat acidic making lactic acid a skin-friendly choice when adjusting pH. Lactates are also effective humectants and buffering agents in soaps and wipes due to their excellent ability to attract and hold moisture within the skin.

AHA and Skin Irritation

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has found Lactic acid to be safe to use in cosmetic and personal care products if the concentration is 10% or less, the final product has a pH of 3.5 or greater, and the final product is formulated in such a way that it protects the skin from increased sun sensitivity or its package directions tell consumers to use daily protection from the sun. (1)

Alpha hydroxyl acids are all known for their potential to irritate skin, but Lactic Acid is considered one of the mildest AHA’s. Nevertheless, if you are formulating for particularly sensitive, use caution while formulating with Lactic Acid. Consider adding soothing, conditioning ingredients such as Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil and Olive Oil to products using AHAs.

Essential Products with AHA include:

FDA Required Warnings when AHA is Used in Cosmetics

The FDA requires that all retail packaging of products containing Alpha hydroxyl Acids contain a sunburn alert, such as follows:

Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

Final thoughts

AHAs are a wonderful ingredient in skin care – especially when you’re looking to improve the appearance of skin and to increase moisture and hydration. Choose the right AHA for sensitivity and be sure to label all your products according to FDA recommendations

Do you have any other questions about AHAs? Just let us know.

Laura

End Notes

Cosmetics Ingredient Review, Monice M. Fiume Nov 15, 2013 http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ahas.pdf